The final show of the evening of Day 2 of Van Heusen India Men’s Week 2011 belonged to Ashish N Soni who articulated with his line a carefree lifestyle of the rich and famous playboys of the French Riviera. Theme and inspiration: Derived from the French term, Còsta d'Azur, the French Riviera is popularly called the ‘Azure Coast’ referring to the Mediterranean coastline of Southern France.
Home to the British aristocracy in late 18th Century, the coastline turned into a vacation spot frequented by a class of writers and artists like Pablo Picasso during the first half of the 20th Century. The mood and the spirit of a bygone era in terms of its recreational quality find a way into fashion in Ashish’s collection outlined with Indian cultural detailing and painted in European aesthetics.
Challenging convention: Defying stereotypical notions of ‘machismo’, masculinity appears clothed in an otherwise conventional ‘feminine’ colour palette. Says Ashish: “It is an advanced age where colours and other such markers are no longer gender specific. Experimentation and fluidity have given fashion a new dimension and a new sense of style to men.” It is really not about challenging prejudices, it’s about “acceptance and inclusion,” adds the designer.
Collection and Design: In a homage to the ‘St. Tropez man’: someone whose life was governed by swigs of champagne, sparkle of the turquoise sea, yachts, dancing and jubilation; Ashish N Soni fuses a range of crayola pink and light khaki linen shorts into his collection in different weaves and textures. The sartorial style of the chic European men is showcased in vibrant colours in shorts, lounge pants with chic turned up hems. The theme rejuvenates in visual stylistics in classic slim fitted single and double breasted piece jackets with some of them going without lapels but fading into creases.
Colour palette: The colour palette moves from predominant pastel pinks, crisp whites, fluorescent oranges, greens and light khakis to the turquoise hues of the sea. Bold colours like dark purple, royal blue and red too allude to nautical clothing in resonance with the larger theme of mirth and happiness.
Prints, style and accessories: The signature polka dot prints find visibility in the ties, collars, cuffs and pocket squares of the ensembles designed by the maestro. Floral brogues and the bubblegum bright linen loafers further add to the image of the English countryside playboy dressed up in complimenting colour blocked socks splashed in kindergarten pastels of pinks, blues and greens. Bandhgalas (predominantly striped) and single breast suits combined into one and sometimes flown in with linen shorts and kurtas adorned in broad Chinese collar and flap placket details lend hybridity to an austere formal wear. Floral printed and polka-dotted shoes as funky summery accessories infused quirky vibrancy to the Spring Summer collection named ‘Cirque du L’argent’ (Circus of money) by the experimenting designer.
A circus of classic exuberance!
Rating: 8.5/10